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How to Control Yellow Nutsedge in Lawn

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Yellow Nutsedge (Cyperus esculentus) is widely considered one of the most difficult and troublesome weeds to control in Northeast Ohio. This weed is not a grass and it’s not a broadleaf weed. It often prefers moist to wet low lying areas and can grow three times as fast as turf grass in the peak of summer. It will be very noticeable 2-3 days after mowing.

Origin

Yellow nutsedge is of subtropical origin and native to North America and Eurasia. However, this species has spread throughout the world. Prior to the mid 1950s, it was previously found in areas where you have hot summers and mild winters. Since then its spread north and is common throughout Northeast Ohio. Yellow Nutsedge now grows naturally along river banks, marshes, around lakeshores, fields, lawns, and gardens. Yellow nutsedge loves water and full sun, so you’ll find it in poorly drained areas of all soil types including clay.

Description and Identification

Yellow Nutsedge is distinctive and fairly easy to identify because of its unique characteristics. It is an erect grass-like weed that is a light green to yellowish in color. The leaves (blades), can be up to ½” wide with a thick  mid-vein, triangular stem, waxy covering, and golden-brown flower head (look like spikes). One way to identify Yellow nutsedge is to pull one and roll the stem in your fingers and you’ll feel three sides of the triangular-shaped stem.
Yellow Nutsedge Distinctive Triangular Stem

Typically the leaves will be approximately 4 inches to 12+ inches long and ⅛ inch to ½ inch wide. Leaves grow in threes around the triangular stem, usually at the base of the plant. Yellow nutsedge leaves also grow taller than the surrounding grass during the summer months. You’ll see it shoot up, sometimes double the height of your grass blades.

Root System

Yellow Nutsedge in Akron Ohio

Triangular stem and golden-brown spikes on the flower head.

Yellow nutsedge roots are fibrous, shallow, underground systems made up of thin, scaly rhizomes (horizontal underground stems), and tubers (similar to bulbs). Rhizomes allow the plant to spread horizontally over an area creating ‘child’ plants, which form masses of yellow nutsedge. The tubers act as storage tanks and produce new plants. At the height of the growing season, each plant can produce nearly 7000 tubers (possible new plants). As the nutsedge flowers it produces seed.

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Which Type of Round-Up Should I Use?

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This is a question that I wish we received more often. While Round-Up (Glyphosate) is a great product and simple to use for a variety of vegetation management projects, we have seen many homeowners use these products incorrectly and cause damage ranging from mild to very extensive.

It should be stated that you should ALWAYS READ THE LABEL of any pesticide. It not only explains how, where, and when to use, but THE LABEL IS THE LAW. Allow me to repeat that since it is so important–The label on a pesticide has the full force of the law behind it. These labels are carefully written and approved by the EPA for safe use when used according to the label.

When choosing a vegetation control product, the active ingredients are easy to read on the front of the product and essential to correctly completing the task at hand. Here are some ingredients you will see:

Glyphosate: This is “original” or “regular” round up. This will kill (almost) all vegetation but will not prevent future growth of weeds and/or grasses. DO NOT SPRAY IN DESIRED GRASS AREAS. We see this all too often. You do not want your yard to have a brown polka dot pattern!

Diquat dibromide: This is an acidic ingredient used to make the treated areas “burn down” more quickly. This is mostly for marketing purposes. It makes the roundup work quickly and satisfies an impatient applicator.

Pelargonic acid: Similar to diquat, only faster. This can work within hours. Nifty, but not necessary.

Imazapic: Found in Round-Up Extended Control, this prevents new growth for up to 3-4 months. Generally safe, but this product can move (leach) within the soil and cause damage to grass and some shrubs and even mature trees. Because the product can move, it can cause damage in areas not intended to be treated. Use this with caution and not uphill from desired grass, tender plants or under certain trees such as linden, cherry, ash.

Imazapyr: CAUTION!!!! This is the ingredient we see cause terrible damage. This is found in products such as “Groundclear”. While a great product that can prevent growth for up to 1 year, it can also kill full grown trees with very little volume. This pesticide is considered a “soil sterilant” and will cause terrible damage in beds and can even kill mature trees.
On the other hand, when used correctly, it is wonderful in maintaining a bare-ground area for up to an entire season with just one application.

Remember: READ THE LABEL. And when in doubt, contact a professional to help with even the simplest projects. A short phone call can save you from a terrible mistake.